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gutted

glittersnake

New member
Well the last of my eggs have perished - had a major problem with my humidity (turned out my hydrometers didn't work)
They were due around now,
The egg stunk and had started to harden.
The baby inside looked like an anery, but the top of its skull had a bubble and had not formed even though the rest of the baby was ok.
Feel guilty I have accidently killed them all by my hydrometer failing
 
Aww ;-; Im sorry for your eggs. Dont feel bad, crap happens some times and there is always next year ;-;

I like using the sheet of paper method along with a hydrometer to make sure that the eggs are not too wet not too dry.

But again, that really sucks ):
 
I'm so sorry that things haven't worked out for you. Better luck next year - who knows, the market for Corns might have picked up a bit, making the next stage (selling the hatchlings) easier. I know it's disappointing, but it may be a blessing in disguise just this once.

Just for info:
The baby inside looked like an anery
A lot of pre-term embryos lack the red and yellow pigments, as these develop later in the incubation process (sometimes continuing through the first year of life). It could have been any morph that included black, or a Normal.
 
I have ordered a Hova-Bator incubator (the non-turbo fan one). I was wondering about the humidity and temp issues. Has anyone used this one..I know Kathy Love recommends the HB in her book. Does the humidity and temps remain constant or do you have to constantly check it? I know it has a built in thermostat but I don't know about a hygrometer.
 
The Hovabator is a relatively cheap, no frills incubator. But that is all you need for corn eggs. I have never used a hygrometer for eggs. I go by how they (and the substrate) looks. Paper on top is a great tool. If it looks crispy, they are too dry. If it looks wet and / or moldy, they are too wet. If the eggs start to dent (and they are not ready to hatch within a week or so), they are too dry. If you see mold or fungus, or it just looks "soggy", air them out a little.

The MOST IMPORTANT thing to do when using a Hovabator (or similar) incubator: set it up and get it to the proper temp AT LEAST A WEEK OR MORE BEFORE ADDING EGGS! When you adjust the temps, you will likely overshoot and get it too hot, then have to adjust again. Once it is just right for a week or so, TAPE DOWN THE CONTROL and DO NOT adjust once eggs are inside. If you do, you will likely cook your eggs by over adjusting. Remember that this incubator has no way to COOL eggs, only heat them. So be sure it is in a room that stays under 80F or so.

I just put my eggs in shoeboxes with damp vermiculite on the shelf in my snake room. The temp varies, but is fine for hatching. Mine take longer to hatch than those in incubators, but it is very easy and I rarely have hatching problems.

Good luck!
 
Thanks Kathy..also received the probes yesterday! Easier than I thought to use! A little harder on females because I am afraid to push it too far to make sure they aren't males. I only got like 1" into Jewels..the one who acted gravid first now displaying male behavior...not eating (hasn't in over a month), roaming the tub, etc.). Should I try the other side pocket to be sure or is that the right depth for a female. The males I could definitely tell the difference.
 
Last year I used Kathy Love's suggestion and covered the eggs with a dampened piece of blank newsprint and once a week I would open the shoeboxes to allow for air exchange and change the paper if necessary. It worked great. I had 100% hatch rate on all fertile eggs.
This year I am trying something a little different. I am trying Don Soderberg's method of covering the eggs with moistened sphagnum moss. I'm 13 days into my first batch of eggs and everything is going great. The eggs look great, and when candled last night, everything is alive and well and the embryo's are developing nicely.
I might add, I am not using an incubator, I have my eggs incubating in a warm area in my snake room that maintains a constant 80 fegrees F.
 
Actually, I prefer the moss on top, too. But for beginners, I think the paper might be a better idea because I think it gives them better feedback as to the humidity. I often just bury eggs most of the way in the vermiculite these days, with nothing on top. We have little carrion flies (phorid flies) here that just love the damp moss. So I don't use the moss too often anymore. But if the flies are not a problem in your area, the moss is great. Everyone should try several different methods to see what they like best. All of the popular methods work fine if done properly. But most people will settle on a favorite way that works best for them.

Probing:
Yes, always try both sides when sexing if you don't feel sure, or if you are new at probing. Feel for the elasticity as much as for the depth. Practice again with those you have already sexed (once every week or two won't hurt them), and get the "feel" for the difference between the muscular "dead end" of the female compared to the springiness of the male hemipenes.
 
Another incubation question just came to mind. If you have two or more gravid females who lay at different times, can you use the same incubator and just mark the containers or do you have to use different incubators?
 
Another incubation question just came to mind. If you have two or more gravid females who lay at different times, can you use the same incubator and just mark the containers or do you have to use different incubators?

I use the same incubator. Three is the most I get in my little hovabator. So I went to Tractor supply and found another one. They have a different brand same concept for $41.00 and tax.....
 
Buzzard do you use the lay box in the incubator or do you put the eggs in a deli cup or another container first..I have seen it both ways just looking for suggestions..thanks
 
Last year I used Kathy Love's suggestion and covered the eggs with a dampened piece of blank newsprint and once a week I would open the shoeboxes to allow for air exchange and change the paper if necessary. It worked great. I had 100% hatch rate on all fertile eggs.
This year I am trying something a little different. I am trying Don Soderberg's method of covering the eggs with moistened sphagnum moss. I'm 13 days into my first batch of eggs and everything is going great. The eggs look great, and when candled last night, everything is alive and well and the embryo's are developing nicely.
I might add, I am not using an incubator, I have my eggs incubating in a warm area in my snake room that maintains a constant 80 fegrees F.
Exactly the way I incubated for years. I love the vermiculite & moss combo.. only way I set my eggs up...Although this year I am incubating with an incubator in my basement to free up space in the snake room.
 
I use the "shelf in the snake room" method as well and find it works out perfectly. I use nothing but sphagnum moss and cover the eggs completely. I used to have holes in the shoeboxes but found the moss dried out quickly and I was having to add moisture almost weekly. Since I use Sterlite showboxes for the eggs, the lid is loose fitting enough, plus with my checking the eggs weekly, that the moisture remains constant and perfect, the eggs have enough air flow AND it keeps most of those nasty little flies out of the boxes (they love to use the little holes to get in). This may not work for everyone as temperature, humidity, etc in the environment/home is a factor, but you can tweak it to fit your specific needs.
 
Buzzard do you use the lay box in the incubator or do you put the eggs in a deli cup or another container first..I have seen it both ways just looking for suggestions..thanks

Depends on the number of eggs. I have a first year girl, last year, that laid 9 eggs. I was able to get them in a larger deli cup no problem. However, I used the lay box( no lid, at that time) for larger clutches. I checked them about every 3 days or so. As time drew near I placed the lid back on the lay box. I did not want the babies to climb up in the heat coil and burn themselves. Worked great.
I usually use Vermiculite as a substrate, however they have stopped selling it around here. I am trying perlite with a mix of moss this year, and will be watching lots more closely because of the change....
 
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