DeadMouse
Hungry, hungry Hognose!
Ooooh, do I remember that case of hoggies at Daytona...
I wish I could give you that case for your birthday Nanci, of course you'd have to fill it yourself after I adopted all the hoggies that were in it :grin01:
Ooooh, do I remember that case of hoggies at Daytona...
Thanks for compliments!That hypo Greeri is beautiful! As is your hypo female western. Unless I have a huge week at the per shop, I guess I'll live vicariously through your collection until next year!
You can call me TroyThanks, Rex!
I know what you meant to say, but to me, even the normals are anything but "normal". Which is why we probably overdosed on all the hognose morphs like we did. Had it not been for the behavioral aspects of the first normal semi-adult pair we got last year, we more than likely wouldn't have gotten to where we are today with our hognose collection!They're nothing special, but I enjoy them.
And how big are we talking weight/grams wise? I had 3 females that laid for me this year, one at 200 grams, one at 250 and the other at 300+. Unfortunately, the first two were bred with a male that proved infertile this year, so all they laid were slugs. I don't attribute it to weight at all. The largest female was bred to a different male who was actually only 50 grams whereas my sterile male was over 100 grams.They are four this year, and the females aren't nearly as big as others I've seen.
I'm feeding the babies smaller meals a lot more frequently and hoping they grow larger. And my '08 albino male is off feed (again) so that's going to just be determined by how much food I can get him to accept. At this rate, he's never going to reach breeding size.
Doh! I KNEW that, too. Mea culpa.You can call me Troy![]()
Agreed. There are many things about them that make me wonder how they EVER survive in nature, too! If they want to eat, and it's smells like food, they just bite and hold on. There's no doubt in my mind they must bite animals wayyy too large to be a prey item in the wild. I have no doubt my '08 females would gladly latch onto an adult mouse. And then try to eat it sideways!I know what you meant to say, but to me, even the normals are anything but "normal". Which is why we probably overdosed on all the hognose morphs like we did. Had it not been for the behavioral aspects of the first normal semi-adult pair we got last year, we more than likely wouldn't have gotten to where we are today with our hognose collection!They are by far the most personable and interesting overall of the snakes we have. That's not to say that I don't have others that I don't love equally, but hognose snakes in general just have so many odd qualities about them that really set them apart from most colubrids.
I meant to weigh them before I put them down. I have my scales at the store, I'll remember to bring it home and let you know. FWIW, the girl Jeff Mohr beings to shows for programs is easily double their size.And how big are we talking weight/grams wise?
Was your sterile male a normal? Is sterility more common in them than other colubrids?I had 3 females that laid for me this year, one at 200 grams, one at 250 and the other at 300+. Unfortunately, the first two were bred with a male that proved infertile this year, so all they laid were slugs. I don't attribute it to weight at all. The largest female was bred to a different male who was actually only 50 grams whereas my sterile male was over 100 grams.
Ugh, I hate to hear that. I was hoping to get my albino to breeding size by spring. I could at least prove out my females and get some hets. I'm just hoping he survives.Believe me, I fully understand your frustration. I have an adult albino male that showed absolutely no interest whatsoever in breeding this year despite being brumated with all the other adults. So, that really threw my hopes of producing albinos this year off.
Wow! That girl is gorgeous!Then we have a pair of pink pastels that we bought at the same time who were from the same clutch last year. The problem is, the female has never been a strong eater and is now the smallest hognose out of our 2007 part of the collection. Only recently has she decided to eat again after another 2 month hiatus of going off food. She's only about 36 grams whereas our male, who eats like a champ, is 82. And that's also considering that it's typically the males that often go off of food and are smaller to begin with. This one particular snake has really stressed me out this year. And not because we paid $1200 for her, but because she's my wife's favorite out of all the hognose morphs we have, and rightfully so as she really is a unique pink pastel. I swear she has some hypo in her.
Sherry (2007)
![]()
But if I've learned anything from our hognose is that patience is a virtue. I'm sure your male will go on a growth spurt when he's good and ready![]()
It's all goodDoh! I KNEW that, too. Mea culpa.
No doubt! I would love to see an actual video filmed of a wild western hog going after and eating a prey item. I'm sure it's got to be something truly hilarious and amazing. And the sideways thing, that just always cracks me up! One of our albino female 07's spent the better part of a half hour last week trying to eat a mouse sideways. I just want to understand the reasons why they've developed this technique.Agreed. There are many things about them that make me wonder how they EVER survive in nature, too! If they want to eat, and it's smells like food, they just bite and hold on. There's no doubt in my mind they must bite animals wayyy too large to be a prey item in the wild. I have no doubt my '08 females would gladly latch onto an adult mouse. And then try to eat it sideways!
For sure there are some exceptionally large females and males out there. I just haven't kept hognose that long to have any individual in my collection stand out apart from the 300+ gram mark. But I'm sure I'll get some really pissy female that will attain that mark and keep me on my toesI meant to weigh them before I put them down. I have my scales at the store, I'll remember to bring it home and let you know. FWIW, the girl Jeff Mohr beings to shows for programs is easily double their size.
Yeah, he is a normal. Personally, I don't attribute him being sterile due to him being a hognose. I attribute it more to the fact that he does like always sleep on the warm side of his tank and he was not brumated last winter with the other adults because at the time I just didn't think he was going to be big enough to breed. But then he went into a feeding frenzy and gained 30 grams in a short period of time and that's when I decided to put him in with some of my females. He truly knew what to do but obviously was just shooting blanks. I hope next year he does regains his virility.Was your sterile male a normal? Is sterility more common in them than other colubrids?
Well, I would rule him out unless he really looks like he's losing weight or looking like a skeleton. Again, while I fully understand your frustration, I'm sure he's in capable handsUgh, I hate to hear that. I was hoping to get my albino to breeding size by spring. I could at least prove out my females and get some hets. I'm just hoping he survives.
Thanks! Like I said, that is my wife's pride and joy out of all of our hognose and for good reason. From almost all of the pictures of pink pastels I have seen and even from our male, they usually seem to wash out some becoming a real light pinkish color, but Sherry has retained a lot of red. I just hope as she gets bigger that she'll keep that red in her. Heck, I just want to see her make it to 100 grams, then I'll be really happy!Wow! That girl is gorgeous!
That's why we invested in a Bufo Woodhouse Toad. He's basically a pet, but he also has a purpose of being there in case we need to molest his scent glands by rubbing pinkies on himI sure hope so. It's been bitter cold outside and I can't find any frogs or toads to scent with. All I have at the shop are firebellies and other foreign and probably toxic species. I'm really worrying for this guy. Tuna water and all the usual tricks don't seem to phase him.
FWIW, the girl Jeff Mohr beings to shows for programs is easily double their size.
Yes, the "new" European line is what I was referring to. Actually, I do agree with you about the hype surrounding it and that there's still some work to be done to verify what exactly it is. If what I've read to be true however, Raimo Huhn has been working with these and has at least F3 or higher offspring that exhibit the trait. So, it's been tested but not sure what against. Some are now wanting to call it a paradox because the hatchlings show black speckling. This I find a big stretch, especially since it may shed off that coloration after a few sheds which nobody is yet sure of it it will or not.
Well, it doesn't matter the legality of them considering I was just naming known recessive morphsBut yes, it's a shame how all of that went down. I was told the specific lengthy story by one of the big name breeders who got caught up in all of that. And this was someone who had enough money to throw at a lawyer to try and fight the system and still lost.
Well, honestly, that's another one I am suspicious of. But, if the belly is lacking melanin (like the Hypos) and the offspring can exhibit the trait, then it's obviously something and I wouldn't have a problem so much with the name Green Hypo. I really need to discuss this with Chad as he seems to be the one selling these.
Yes, I did accidentally leave that one out. That's why I said I knew I was likely going to forget one or two at 1amAnd if anybody hasn't seen pictures of the Lavenders, they are truly a beautiful snake.
I didn't leave it out per se as I could have easily spent a ton of time putting forth every type of combination possible. I only listed combo's that I basically knew were already produced or in the works. Because I haven't heard or seen anything about any type of Pink Pastel, I said this I would be interested in seeing some pics of the ones you seem to know about though, I would be curious how different they are to a typical Lazik hypo if you are saying these are also called hypos.
Well, again, I said meaning only 2 people have made it publicly know that they own some, Brian Barczyk and Vin Russo (who both produced 2 each). I don't doubt that there's a possibility that there might be someone else out there that produced some, but unless that someone comes forth and can prove it, 4 is all that is currently known.
I have to agree. Based on the pictures (and photography can be a tricky and misleading thing) the supposed "hybinos" I've seen didn't look really any different than a pale albino. But that is at least the claim of the breeder ( I'm sure it is the same one you know of although I cannot currently recall their name), that their hybino is the product of a double het albino/hypo pairing. They do try and sell their hybino at least once a year on ks.
Are you talking about the Lazik line of PPA/Hypo? I've always been curious about why his line was of double recessive genetics since he doesn't mention on his site whether he himself was trying to create a PPA x Hypo line or not.
Do you have, or know of any pictures of such an animal? Again, I would love to see what one of these would look like as it's something I haven't yet come across.
Well, there's a lot of unscrupulous people out there in the world. It's just a shame that people value money over integrity and the respect of others. And there's definitely a few unsavory individuals in this trade to help keep one on his toes.
Ain't that the truth! Life is kinda funny that way, what it gives can quickly be taken away in spades. We've had so many bad things happen to us in our lives (don't worry, I won't bore you with the details :noevilby the time its all over; that won't be the worst thing to ever happen to me!
Well, I guess that might be considered a problem as you were not able to ascertain the true temperature of what the 6 watt flexwatt was really putting out. It is possible that 6 watts might not put out enough heat for your setup, but unless you could actually verify that with a heat gun, it's questionable at best whether or not it would be sufficient. I believe it is a member here who had the pithy signature that stated "your hand is not a thermometer" and how right that is!FWIW, it's 10 watt flex. I pulled 6 watt OUT after giving it a trial run in that system. I could barely feel the heat with my bare hand on it! Granted, I didn't scientifically test it; but neither of them felt hot enough to me running wide open. The 6 watt felt like a piece of unplugged heat tape that I'd held my hand to 10 seconds ago.
I imagine the gross fluctuations in ambient temperatures within your store can and obviously did create an unwelcome situation. It does give one something to think about though in regards to understanding that if it does get only 10 degrees, what is the ambient temperature of the cool side of your display setups and possibly the cold air your reptiles might be exposed to despite having a warm side that might get too warm which causes them to move to a cool side that is too cold. Just food for thought.The error is mine; I should have put these racks in a small room with a reasonably constant temperature. I put them out for display in my wide open store and I have lost control of their environments when it's sunny in the day and 10 degrees at night. This is a new one on me. I've always had snake rooms that were heated and constant in my home, racks on an open retail floor aren't working.
I'm really glad to hear this. I would hate to hear that you lost any more animals due to this. I'm sure if they survived this ordeal, that they'll be fine. Of all of the the animals that were heat stressed and survived from my space heater malfunction, they all did fine after a few days of recuperating. I'm sure yours will too!Oh, and all the others checked out just fine a few minutes ago!(I guess)
Also, it also might be helpful to run a secondary thermostat to control the power to the first one should there be a case of overheating. When we visited the Applegates this summer, I saw that he had such a concurrent thermostat system for just that particular kind of situation control.
I think age has a lot to do with that perspective. It's not a lack of enthusiasm, it's just realizing you have no choice but to roll with things.Ain't that the truth! Life is kinda funny that way, what it gives can quickly be taken away in spades. We've had so many bad things happen to us in our lives (don't worry, I won't bore you with the details :noevilthat I've learned to change my perspective on what I define as bad or unfortunate. Now, I view these events as things that were meant to happen to redirect me into another direction. Many times are the reasons I'll never for the life of me understand, but they are the things that have put me right where I am now, wherever that may be. :crazy02:
I have (and used) a temp gun! My point was, the tape had to be inserted before the cages were assembled. I could gun it all day in open air, but that's no indicator of how it would heat the rack once in a closed environment. I guess I didn't put that clearly. IMO, an experienced hand IS a valuable tool! I've had racks of Neodeshae cages for 15 years that I can pretty much "palm and read." Of course, the location of the animals tell you a ton, too!Well, I guess that might be considered a problem as you were not able to ascertain the true temperature of what the 6 watt flexwatt was really putting out. It is possible that 6 watts might not put out enough heat for your setup, but unless you could actually verify that with a heat gun, it's questionable at best whether or not it would be sufficient. I believe it is a member here who had the pithy signature that stated "your hand is not a thermometer" and how right that is!
Oh, I use mine all the time! I gun the vivs, the 'fridge, aquariums, windowpanes, customers who aren't looking... I can't imagine not owning my lil' yella gun now! That and a cheap microscope are two things every herper should have!Purchasing a heat/temp gun would be the best $50+ you could spend when you really need to verify the temps of things. I use mine all the time from testing the max temps of my flexwatt/rack builds to my thawing of frozen mice, checking the cool spots in the tanks to make sure they are not too cool and even checking the temps in my incubators. It's a great gadget and a must have for anybody who is working with reptiles.
I'm realizing that I have to build a reptile room. No way around it. Unfortunately, I don't have the funds now so expensive or fragile animals will have to go home with me for the winter. Also, I need to move all the heat tape from the center of the rack to a far side. That'll give a much better gradient (and more space to get away in case of overheating). I was concerned I couldn't adequately heat them, that's clearly not an issue. I'm still stumped as to why 2 parallel rows of tape out of ten overheated and the rest did not.I imagine the gross fluctuations in ambient temperatures within your store can and obviously did create an unwelcome situation. It does give one something to think about though in regards to understanding that if it does get only 10 degrees, what is the ambient temperature of the cool side of your display setups and possibly the cold air your reptiles might be exposed to despite having a warm side that might get too warm which causes them to move to a cool side that is too cold. Just food for thought.
Yeah, they seem fine and hungry. No regurges or odd behavior. Oh, I'll check out Applegate's method you and Nanci talked about. I'm sure I'll be back with questions!I'm really glad to hear this. I would hate to hear that you lost any more animals due to this. I'm sure if they survived this ordeal, that they'll be fine. Of all of the the animals that were heat stressed and survived from my space heater malfunction, they all did fine after a few days of recuperating. I'm sure yours will too!