Kokopelli
Resident Boa Fanatic
Hey all,
As I am not a "contributing member" aside from annoying people here and there, I try every once in a great while to "give something back".
I know this is a cornsnake forum but to those of you who are interested in keeping BCI... I wrote this caresheet which will uploaded to my site later on.
For the time being, I thought it may prove useful here:
Boa Constrictor Imperator Caresheet
Kingdom: Animalia
Phylum: Chordata
Subphylum: Vertebrata
Class: Reptilia
Order: Squamata
Suborder: Serpentes
Family: Boidae
Subfamily: Boinae
Genus: Boa
Species: B. constrictor
The purpose of this article is to equip the beginning keeper with all the basic knowledge he needs to know when deciding to keep a BCI.
Things to bear in mind when considering a Boa Constrictor as a pet
The Boidae family is not exclusive the "red tail boas" but also encompasses many others such as the Amazon and Emerald Tree Boas, Anacondas, Sand, Rosy, Rainbow Boas and many more. All of which greatly vary in their habitats, size, and temperament.
In this article I will be focusing on the Boa Constrictor Imperator as is the most widely kept sub-species of the "Redtails", and since morphs have developed greatly in recent years, they have become a personal favourite of mine.
Before describing some of the very positive traits this snake has there are certain facts a person who considers getting one should be aware of:
* BCI's can reach impressive size, with females capable of reaching 3-3.5 meters( roughly 8-10 feet). They are also thick and very muscular- in fact, when compared to Burmese and Reticulated pythons of the same size, BCI tend to be slightly thicker. Snakes of this size can potentially kill a young man, or at least cause significant injury- this is not a common occurrence, but it is a possibility as it is with any animal of this size.
* A snake this size needs a large enclosure and they eat quite a bit- especially when compared to colubrids. Large snakes of this species will mostly feed on several rats or even rabbits/guinea pigs.
* BCI's can live up to 30 years, which is no short span by any reckoning, which is a fact that needs to be taken into consideration- they should be taken in lightly.
My personal recommendation is to avoid buying/getting a Boa Constrictor before you've been to several places and tried to handle adult BCI's. Young people sometimes lose perspective in the face of the excitement of getting a new snake- only to end up being negatively surprised by the size and strength their "pet" has attained.
On the other hand, there are several advantages to this amazing species.
BCI's are impressive animals both in beauty and size, and though they may exhibit mild aggressiveness at early stages in the form of nipping and hissing, most of them settle down and become exemplary docile animals.
BCI's seem far more confident than many other snakes, be it due to their size or mayhap the fact that in the wild they are top-predators, this makes them react more calmly to being handled. In fact, from my own experiences, they get so comfortable so quickly that you will wonder if they even care that you are there- Handling is a very enjoyable experience with these.
This confidence also makes them extraordinary display animals, as they are unlikely to hide and would rather place themselves on high ground, "watching over their kingdom".
BCC, BCI and other RedTail Boas
Most people who get into Redtail Boas will stumble upon these terms. The Boa Constrictor species is divided to sub groups such as Boa Constrictor Constrictors and Boa Constrictor Imperator.
The common Boa Constrictor is the one this article will be focusing on, also known as the Boa Constrictor Imperator.
There are more similarities than differences between the two groups, however other Redtail Boas tend to be slightly more aggressive and end up a deal larger.
If your heart's desire is a BCC for instance, this article may prove to be a useful guideline but it should only be a supplement to your study and reading of more species-specific articles.
Physical attributes:
Boa Constrictors are incubated internally within a female, pregnancy lasting around 100-120 days(greatly varies), during which the embryos develop and emerge attached to their yolk sack(some BCI emerge having already absorbed most of the yolk, while others who need to do so already after they have been born),
They begin their lives at roughly 30-50 cm long, depending on the locality of the Boa.
Some attributes shared by BCI:
• Eyes with elongated(not round) pupils in metallic shades such as silver and copper- some BCI retain this colors throughout their lives while other develop less metallic shades as they mature. The morph of the Boa usually significantly affects the color of the eye.
• The last potion of the tail, roughly around the Cloacae and downwards is different in texture and color, usually being one of the most attractive parts in the Boa. The tail too expresses genotypes and helps in identifying certain morphs. There are some morphs that are even based entirely on the tail, such as laddertails.
• Classic BCI have saddles arranged on their backs, sometimes referred to as bats or bowties. On their flanks, diamond shapes of the same hue exist
• The colors of a Classic Boa Constrictor change as they grow, starting out grey and slowly developing dark green and yellow pigments.
During their first year of life, BCI can triple their size, and during their second year grow even further, adding roughly 3-4 feet to their length. Past two years of age, the growth is significantly slowed down and the snake continues to grow throughout their whole lives- though their growth is minimal and barely noticeable as they become older.
Male BCI can reach roughly 5.8-7 feet while females will reach 7-11 feet. It greatly depends on how much they are being fed and naturally, how big were the parents.
Boa Constrictors have vestiges of a pelvis which protrudes at both flanks of the snake, near the Cloacae- these are believed to be remnants of limbs. These little spikes are called Spurs, and they are used by keepers to differentiate between males and females, males having bigger spurs. This is not a fool proof method, but keepers have been known to make use of it to great affect. The male Boa Constrictors use these spurs to scratch and entice the female during courtship.
It is believed that Boa Constrictors have some measure of color vision, including infra-red which is invisible to the human eye. For more details, consult this article:
:
http://www.eyedesignbook.com/ch3/eyech3-f.html
" The boa constrictor is nonvenomous and has color vision, some also have extended infra-red (IR) vision well beyond where humans can see. This enables it to sense temperature differences of less than 0.03 degrees centigrade at a significant distance, and thus find live targets in dense rain forests. Their IR vision system is being studied by the military to see how such a detector, useful for night vision, can function without being cooled to a very low temperature."
Selection and setup
Again, I can't stress enough the meaning of acquiring a Boa Constrictor, both to it's size and strength, and it's longevity. Please explain that I don't repeat this to dissuade people from getting one, but rather, try and explain the full meaning behind owning such an animal. Every year, more and more BCI are being bought by unaware buyers, who later become frustrated and undue stress is being put on both snake and keeper.
The husbandry is not complicated but it does require a mature presence of mind when choosing to bring such a snake into one's home.
After getting that point across, please allow me to be the first to congratulate you on what I consider a very worthy choice. Boa Constrictor Imperators are charming, impressive snake that usually has a very tolerant and docile disposition. I may gain a few eyebrow raises by saying so, but I certainly compare it to the acquiring of a new friend, for a relatively long term.
Whilst I came across the very common approach that generally states that a buyer should acquire all the things needed to keep the snake all the way to adulthood before getting it, I have to say that I am not like-minded. I believe that some items are essential while other requirements can be filled with the use of mundane, cheap, available materials/options.
I believe that one of the pros of keeping a snake is the fact that the general maintenance is cheap, and as I value a (pick a coin of choice), I will try to advise to the best of my ability how to arrange a decent setup, without spending too much money, and without compromising the snake's quality of life or safety, nor the breeder's:
*Vivarium: There are many choices for vivariums out there. I personally prefer plastic cages because they are light-weight, attractive and safe. However, they are not cheap- they are also not readily available to everyone.
A replacement which I feel does just as good a job is a plastic tub or shoebox- they are relatively cheap, hardy, and easy to clean. Glass and wooden vivariums are also an option.
Be your choice as it may, I usually advise to house your newly arrived BCI in a plastic box. For a baby BCI, a box measuring roughly 15X15 inches should be fine for the first couple of months. Be aware though that the BCI will grow rapidly, and by the end of the first year you may need to house him/her in a 30X20 enclosure.
Due to their rapid growth, I believe that immediately acquiring a vivarium that will last for the rest of his/her days is not essential- also, their size slightly varies and buying a vivarium you may end up not using is a shameful waste of money.
Regardless of your choice you should make sure that the enclosure is ventilated and that the lid can be closed and secured- snakes spend a whole lot of time in their enclosures, if there is a way to escape it, they will find it.
If you chose an adult BCI- you should pick a vivarium suited for her needs. I prefer not to give definite figures since it really does vary from one Boa to the other, depending on their size. You can expect a fully grown female to require a 4-6 foot viv, males usually needing a 3-4 feet- These are very rough estimations, very depending on the snake's size, and locality- some Boas are significantly smaller than others- such as the Corn Isle Boas.
* Thermometer- Essential, period. You don't have to buy the most expensive thermometer, but having one is essential to the proper husbandry of reptiles.
* Heating- There are quite a few methods for heating an enclosure nowdays. I personally am a big fan of heating sources that can be placed outside of the viv, thus minimizing the chance for heat-burns. I discourage people to use heating bricks/rocks, their small size forces the snake to be coiled all around it, and they have a tendency to malfunction. I imagine some people encourage the use of these, but I am not one of them- especially for a snake as large as a Boa.
I prefer using a UTH(Under Tank Heater)- be it a cable or a heating mat of the right watt.
* Bedding: Here too, there are many options. Personally, I found Aspen shavings to be an excellent option for juvenile BCI and adults. My favorite is, you may be surprised to learn, is plain ol' newspaper. Since Boa Constrictors do not defecate frequently, this is an excellent, cheap choice. Putting personal preferences aside, initially I advise using a newpaper or paper towels as bedding, enabling you to easily monitor your BCI's urine and stools- seeing that there are no traces of worms, blood, or anything out of the ordinary.
Additional accessories:
Water-dish: essential, naturally. But rather than going for expensive stylized water dishes, you can easily use any sturdy bowl that comes to mind. A few things should be taken into consideration prior to picking a water-dish: It should be easy to clean it, it shouldn't be painted with toxic materials, it is stable enough and will not be easily turned upside down when moved and lastly- has enough space for the snake to be able to get into it fully.
Hide: Many keepers insist that hides are essential… personally, all the Boas I've seen were much more keen on laying on top of the hide than they were in it. I have yet to keep or see a baby Boa that preferred to hide but… snakes, and especially Boas, are not all the same and they have their own personality. My take on this is to provide a hide, but I discourage from buying expansive ones as from experience, they are more likely to use it as a branch or lay beside it than actually be in it.
Branches and rocks: I encourage keepers to put branches and rocks in the vivarium. Of course, one has to make sure that the stones and branches were thoroughly cleaned, preferably soaked in water with iodine/bit of bleach and then thoroughly rinsed. You may be surprised to learn this but Boa Constrictor Imperators are very arboreal and they love to climb and lay on "higher ground watching over their realm". Make sure to change the rocks and branches every now and then, switching places or items to keep the snake stimulated. I believe this contributes to a higher quality of life.
Pincers/hemostats: Some tool for handing f/t rodents is a must. These snakes usually "shed away" their docile disposition when confronted with the smell of food, reminding us of their predatory nature. As such, it is very discouraged not to feed a BCI with an appropriately sized tool- failing to do so may lead to a serious injury of either the snake, keeper, or both.
Selecting a snake
A very wrongfully underestimated part of getting a snake, is choosing the source(breeder).
Though I do not like speak against anyone, I'm afraid that just like in any community, in the herping community there are people who should be trusted that play on new keeper's ignorance by selling BCI that are possibly unhealthy, or with a label that does not reflect the truth about the snake- be it supposedly "pure locality" or one morph or another when in fact, it's neither.
There is a very real risk to buying from a third person, be it from a store or a middle-man. First, you run the risk of the snake being kept in sub-optimal conditions because you don't know how well versed the store/person is in snake husbandry, and second, you can't examine the facility yourself, nor can you usually see the parents of the snake you consider- or, to be short, you put your trust in a person whom you hardly know, and whose understanding and care for the snake you are buying is usually minimal.
Personally, I always recommend that a reputable breeder is chosen, for a multitude of reasons. Most breeders will allow a certain level of clarity, possibly allowing you to visit the facilities, seeing the parents or simply meeting up- do bear in mind though that a breeder too is entitled to some measure of privacy.
By buying from a breeder, you can also forge an ongoing relationship that will allow you to consult him with your new snake- for new keepers, the worth of such an opportunity is invaluable.
Most breeders will also take some measure of responsibility, and guarantee the arrival of the snake and it's well-being(this is usually true when it comes to inter-continental shipments). This responsibility however is limited in nature because once the snake leaves his establishment and is at the hands of new keeper, the new snake's condition is entirely dependent on his husbandry skills- the condition of a snake can deteriorate quickly if he is not kept properly- breeders simply cannot take responsibility for things that are not in their hands.
Now that we have chosen our source, let us go over a few things that we should check and examine when choosing our new BCI:
1- the eyes are alert, bright, not bulging and emitting no discharge(in the case of shedding, the eyes should appear cloudy and slightly blue).
2- The snake responds and is alert to his surroundings, flicking his tongue with interest. Aggression at this stage is sometimes a blessed thing, as it usually signifies that the snake is in a good condition.
3- The snake, even if he is a neonate, should have quite a bit of muscle tone, which should be obviously noted when handled.
4- The body is muscular and free of scars or lesions. The scales should be smooth and have a glimmering quality to them.
5- Under good lightening, examine the snake and see if it has mites(visible to the naked eye as miniature black dots, either moving about or lodged in sensitive areas such as the sides of the mouth, eyes, cloaca and so on). Mites are blood sucking parasites and though they cannot harm human beings, they are the potential carriers of disease. It is best to avoid bring a snake that has mites into one's home.
6- If at all possible, try and get the snake to open it's mouth, seeing that is
no sign of mouth-rot(cheese-like texture within the oral cavity, in
severe cases even black/green with discharge),
Another thing to consider is WC versus CB- unless you are very set on getting a certain locality from which only wildcaught animals are aware, I highly recommend not getting wildcaught animals.
Putting the moral issue aside that most of these animals are smuggled and that it promotes the removal of wild animals from their habitats, usually WC animals will be very aggressive, under severe stress, have internal parasites and quite possibly suffer from other problems such as kidney damage because the conditions in which they were shipped were far from optimal.
Personally, I have never taken in a WC animal, and I don't see myself doing so anytime soon.
Captive Born animals will usually be a deal more docile, healthy, and far more suitable as a pet.
The importance of Quarantine!- Inculsion Body Disorder
It is very recommended to quarantine your new snake, if you already have an established collection for a multitude of reasons, one of them being IBD.
Inclusion Body Disorder, Also known as IBD, is the equivalent of HIV, only in reptiles. Boa Constrictors are natural potential carriers of what is today considered to be a retro-virus(much like HIV).
This disease is fatal, and has no cure. It is very complicated and difficult to diagnose a living animal, often requiring a series of rather invasive biopsy tests to yield close to accurate results.
The virus attacks only Boids- Boas and Pythons. Pythons are not natural carriers, once exposed to the virus, it is a matter of few weeks before they show the symptoms and perish.
With Boas, it is a bit more complicated- as natural carriers, Boa Constrictors can carry the disease without ever showing symptoms, all the while infecting other snakes in their surroundings until it erupts. Once the snake shows symptoms however, it's a matter of time before they die.
The virus works as Aides does, disabling the snake's immune system, thus making it susceptible to mouth rot, respiratory infection and so on. The symptoms therefore include mouth rot and/or respiratory infection(wheezing, discharge from the mouth, reluctance to eat, lethargy). These however return even if treated, or remain even when treated. IBD in addition seems to be related to the nerves and spines- snakes suffering from IBD mostly exhibiting behavior associated with stargazers, their body become disoriented and incapable of normal movement, the head lolling in a corkscrew motion.
Once the BCI begins to show these symptoms, it is sadly a matter of time…
It is yet unclear whether or not Colubrids can carry the disease, but it is certain that they are immune to it's effects.
Infection occurs when a snake is exposed to infected body fluids- when breeding, exposure to infected feces and infected blood- the latter occurring due to the presence of mites- which are considered the main reason for the spreading of the disease.
I did not write about IBD to scare anyone, but rather, to encourage awareness to a very real threat, and the importance of acquiring snakes from a reputable source.
By quarantining the snake for a period of 3-6 months(the more, the better), you can monitor your new snake's behavior and health without running the risk of infecting your whole collection. Quarantine should be held in a separate room from your main reptile room, and if at all possible, a different facility altogether.
It is recommended to first handle and care for your established collection and only then move to the new animal, that way you are eliminating the risk of transferring bacteria/parasites to your healthy animals.
Make sure you do not switch water bowls, vivarium or decorations between the new snake's viv and your established collection- again, for the same reason.
Hygiene is of course essential- make sure to wash your hands with anti bacterial soap after handling your snakes.
Though this period of time may not ensure beyond a doubt that your snake has IBD, it is still better than nothing. Also, the main benefit is the ability to completely eradicate any presence of mites on the animal during this time- this way, even if the snake is infected, the disease will at least be contained.
General Maintenance
In the "Selection and setup" section I already described the necessities one would need when bringing a new BCI, in this section I will be describing the general husbandry that is recommended for these animals.
I generally support providing a thermal gradient within the tank, in the warmer spot providing 29-32 C (84-88 F) and on the cooler ends around 26-28 C(79-82 F). Each breeder may give different numerals but eventually they all tend to revolve around the same spectrum.
Boa Constrictors generally do not have special humidity requirements, and would be content with a water bowl big enough to fit into if the need arises. However, if you live in a particularly dry area, spraying the BCI with a bit of clean water on a weekly basis can certainly do no harm- just make sure that the viv is well ventilated.
Water:
I recommend changing the water at least one a week, though twice a week would be preferable.
Every week or two, take out the water dish and clean it with anti-bacterial soap. Personally, I use iodine solution diluted with water to soak and scrub the dishes with.
Some keepers recommend using the water dish as a method to increase the humidity within the vivarium by setting it at the warm side. Personally I am not a fan of this method since higher temperature accelerates the growth of bacteria within the water, thus quickly making it unworthy to drink and I also don't think that the snake appreciates the taste of warm water.
Feeding:
BCI's are usually –very- eager and enthusiastic feeders, generally making feeding a very rewarding experience.
When feeding, make sure you use a hemostat or another tool to handle the mouse, for BCI's react with ferociousness mostly and you may end up being bitten- Boa Constrictors are powerful, and they get quite big, bites therefore it is best to avoid being bitten.
BCI feed on rodents, quails, guinea pigs and rabbits- people who have a problem with feeding, should not bring in a BCI. There is a limited number of species who thrive on fish and insects, like garter snakes, but there are not vegetarian snakes- failing to provide them with the appropriate sustenance will result in serious harm to the snake.
Another dilemma that frequently raises it's head is the matter of feeding live versus frozen/thawed prey(also known as f/t).
Personally, I encourage people to feed on solely f/t for several reasons:
1- Minimizing the risk of injury on the snake's part
2- It is easier to store large quantities of rodents when frozen
3- I personally believe it is more humane
4- By eliminating the snake's need to struggle for it's food, the predatory instincts slowly become more and more dormant, thus making the snake generally more docile and less agitated. This is not a fact, but an opinion based on personal observation of mine.
I generally encourage keepers to feed their BCI outside of their vivs. That way, they know that when your hand comes into the viv, it's not food, thus minimizing the risk for being mistakenly identified as food.
Also, if you keep your snake on bedding such as aspen, you avoid harmful ingestion of the substrate by feeding outside of the tank.
Though not being the common case, reluctant eaters aren't unheard of. If you happen to have a picky BCI, there are several things to consider- first and foremost, check the thermal gradient to make sure that this is not due to husbandry related errors.
If that's not the case, try and see if feeding the snake within the viv changes things- Some BCI become too agitated when moved, making them too concerned with what they perceive as a threat to be interested in food.
Other BCI prefer to eat undisturbed, try leaving an f/t rodent with the snake in a small box for around an hour or so- you can also try leaving it in the snake's viv, making sure that the snake is not on aspen bedding or any other chipped bedding- ingestion can result in bowel impaction and may prove fatal.
The last resort would be feeding live- personally, I have yet to encounter a snake that can't be "converted". However, such cases do exist, but they are not common enough that you should be too concerned.
At the first 4 months of their lives, feeding should take place roughly once a week. Depending on the size of the BCI, they will usually take 2 weaned mice, or a single small adult every meal at the beginning.
A good way to assess the size of the meal is to feed a prey whose size does not exceed the snake's girth by more than 150%. If the "feeding bulge" vanishes within two days as though the snake hadn't eaten, it is time to move to slightly bigger meals.
At 4-5 months of age, I recommend changing the feeding schedule to once every 10 days, and at around 8-9 months, once every two weeks.
Female BCI should be fed every two weeks from here on out. Male BCI, as they get older, beginning at 12-18 months of age, should be fed once every 2 and a half to three weeks.
Adult females will feed on a good quantity of rats, 2-4 big adults, or another rodent of total equivalent size.
Males, being usually a deal smaller, will feed on 1-3 adult rats.
This is a very rough estimation and it is very dependent on the snake's size.
I highly recommend documenting feedings in a feeding log, this allows you to monitor the snake's meals more efficiently, in case of regurgitations, shedding an so on, recording it to keep track of things.
Regurgitation as a whole in BCI is worse than colubrids- BCI need more time to recover and are more affected by it.
In case of regurgitation, make sure to not feed the snake for at least 2 weeks, after which, a small meal, around 50% of the norm, should be given.
If the snake does not regurgitate, another similar meal should be offered- if both meals are not regurgitated, you can return to the normal feeding regime, making sure you pay close attention to the size of the meal that you give.
Shedding:
Boa Constrictors, like all snakes, shed. The shedding occurs when a new layer of keratin is created due to wear and tear and the snake's growth. For young boas, this can occur every month or so, and as they mature, it becomes less and less frequent.
When a BCI goes into shed, they usually darken and become slightly washed- this being very visible if the saddles on the tail are examined. The eyes later become cloudy, sometimes even solid blue. Some BCI also gain a slightly "saggy" look, their skin looking as though it is slightly too big for them.
During this period the snake is partially blind and many of them would be guarded. At this point it is best to just leave them be- food is better avoided at this time since in many cases, it will simply be refused altogether.
After several days, around 4 or so, the snake's eyes will clear and he will lighten a bit- and an actual shed should quickly follow, a matter of few days.
From personal experience, BCI tend to look their best around 24-48 hours after the actual shed- so do not be alarmed or concerned if your BCI seems to have a lot of grey areas, these usually clear up and leave a wonderful sight in their wake.
Handling your BCI
It remains unclear if snakes truly enjoy interaction or not. It is impossible to argue the fact that snakes in the wild are solitary by choice and preference, this being due the competition over resources in the wild and their own instincts.
In captivity the rules are slightly changed, and like it or not, more and more reports from hobbyists are made here and there claiming that one of their snakes seems to be extra tolerant and even likes to crawl over to the keeper when his cage is open.
One can justifiably argue the point and say that the snake makes haste to see if there's food involved- and it is quite possible.
However, we cannot know for a certainty, and this is not a discussion I can form a conclusion to.
However, I do believe that the equivalent of trust can be made between snake and owner- the snake "understanding" and not registering the keeper as a threat. To do so, interaction must be made.
Personally, I enjoy handling my Boas, unlike Colubrids, their self confidence allows them to slither about deliberately and without suddenly darting off anywhere, thus making the experience quite enjoyable.
When reaching out to take hold of the snake, make sure you lift them gently from roughly one third down his length, grabbing him from the head or neck can easily be interpreted as a threat and it will react as much. Also, try not to catch the snake unaware, if you wish to handle your snake, make sure the snake notices your presence first- usually will be greeted with some manner of movement and tongue flicking.
When handling your snake, try not to make alarming, quick movements, as time progresses, you should be comfortable with handling your snake and the snake will act more casually when you handle it.
Another very highly debated topic is their intelligence- I for one believe that snakes, like the majority of animals, is capable of associating action with consequence. As such, if every time he hisses, the keeper backs away- the snake simply registers that when he hisses, he is left alone, thus basically being rewarded. Same goes for biting attempts.
Personally, I feel that if the snake hisses or try to bite, we should deliberately try and handle them- all the while making sure that the handling is brief and that we do not stress out the snake too much. The goal being that the snake will see that his efforts are "futile" and eventually will relent and tolerate being handled.
I imagine many keepers would argue this point, it is an opinion based on personal experience, which may be true and may be false.
I know that it had worked wonders for me, allowing me to turn an aggressive Texas Ratsnake into a very docile animal, same goes for aggressive baby BCI's and even calming down a Biak Green Tree Python to a degree.
This however is no "miracle cure". Some snakes will remain aggressive because their instincts are very dominant- especially in wild caught animals.
All in all, handling your snake allows you to enjoy your snake, and the snake gains an opportunity to work his muscles and be stimulated- thus breaking the routine of being confined to the same space for long periods of time.
Another way to add stimulus to the snake's life is to shift objects inside his viv, adding branches, changing their location and so on. These changes can be minor and need not be too frequent- I feel that they add a lot to the snake's quality of life.
Have fun with your Boa Constrictor Imperator!
Any feedback would be appreciated if you feel like it.
Oren.
As I am not a "contributing member" aside from annoying people here and there, I try every once in a great while to "give something back".
I know this is a cornsnake forum but to those of you who are interested in keeping BCI... I wrote this caresheet which will uploaded to my site later on.
For the time being, I thought it may prove useful here:
Boa Constrictor Imperator Caresheet
Kingdom: Animalia
Phylum: Chordata
Subphylum: Vertebrata
Class: Reptilia
Order: Squamata
Suborder: Serpentes
Family: Boidae
Subfamily: Boinae
Genus: Boa
Species: B. constrictor
The purpose of this article is to equip the beginning keeper with all the basic knowledge he needs to know when deciding to keep a BCI.
Things to bear in mind when considering a Boa Constrictor as a pet
The Boidae family is not exclusive the "red tail boas" but also encompasses many others such as the Amazon and Emerald Tree Boas, Anacondas, Sand, Rosy, Rainbow Boas and many more. All of which greatly vary in their habitats, size, and temperament.
In this article I will be focusing on the Boa Constrictor Imperator as is the most widely kept sub-species of the "Redtails", and since morphs have developed greatly in recent years, they have become a personal favourite of mine.
Before describing some of the very positive traits this snake has there are certain facts a person who considers getting one should be aware of:
* BCI's can reach impressive size, with females capable of reaching 3-3.5 meters( roughly 8-10 feet). They are also thick and very muscular- in fact, when compared to Burmese and Reticulated pythons of the same size, BCI tend to be slightly thicker. Snakes of this size can potentially kill a young man, or at least cause significant injury- this is not a common occurrence, but it is a possibility as it is with any animal of this size.
* A snake this size needs a large enclosure and they eat quite a bit- especially when compared to colubrids. Large snakes of this species will mostly feed on several rats or even rabbits/guinea pigs.
* BCI's can live up to 30 years, which is no short span by any reckoning, which is a fact that needs to be taken into consideration- they should be taken in lightly.
My personal recommendation is to avoid buying/getting a Boa Constrictor before you've been to several places and tried to handle adult BCI's. Young people sometimes lose perspective in the face of the excitement of getting a new snake- only to end up being negatively surprised by the size and strength their "pet" has attained.
On the other hand, there are several advantages to this amazing species.
BCI's are impressive animals both in beauty and size, and though they may exhibit mild aggressiveness at early stages in the form of nipping and hissing, most of them settle down and become exemplary docile animals.
BCI's seem far more confident than many other snakes, be it due to their size or mayhap the fact that in the wild they are top-predators, this makes them react more calmly to being handled. In fact, from my own experiences, they get so comfortable so quickly that you will wonder if they even care that you are there- Handling is a very enjoyable experience with these.
This confidence also makes them extraordinary display animals, as they are unlikely to hide and would rather place themselves on high ground, "watching over their kingdom".
BCC, BCI and other RedTail Boas
Most people who get into Redtail Boas will stumble upon these terms. The Boa Constrictor species is divided to sub groups such as Boa Constrictor Constrictors and Boa Constrictor Imperator.
The common Boa Constrictor is the one this article will be focusing on, also known as the Boa Constrictor Imperator.
There are more similarities than differences between the two groups, however other Redtail Boas tend to be slightly more aggressive and end up a deal larger.
If your heart's desire is a BCC for instance, this article may prove to be a useful guideline but it should only be a supplement to your study and reading of more species-specific articles.
Physical attributes:
Boa Constrictors are incubated internally within a female, pregnancy lasting around 100-120 days(greatly varies), during which the embryos develop and emerge attached to their yolk sack(some BCI emerge having already absorbed most of the yolk, while others who need to do so already after they have been born),
They begin their lives at roughly 30-50 cm long, depending on the locality of the Boa.
Some attributes shared by BCI:
• Eyes with elongated(not round) pupils in metallic shades such as silver and copper- some BCI retain this colors throughout their lives while other develop less metallic shades as they mature. The morph of the Boa usually significantly affects the color of the eye.
• The last potion of the tail, roughly around the Cloacae and downwards is different in texture and color, usually being one of the most attractive parts in the Boa. The tail too expresses genotypes and helps in identifying certain morphs. There are some morphs that are even based entirely on the tail, such as laddertails.
• Classic BCI have saddles arranged on their backs, sometimes referred to as bats or bowties. On their flanks, diamond shapes of the same hue exist
• The colors of a Classic Boa Constrictor change as they grow, starting out grey and slowly developing dark green and yellow pigments.
During their first year of life, BCI can triple their size, and during their second year grow even further, adding roughly 3-4 feet to their length. Past two years of age, the growth is significantly slowed down and the snake continues to grow throughout their whole lives- though their growth is minimal and barely noticeable as they become older.
Male BCI can reach roughly 5.8-7 feet while females will reach 7-11 feet. It greatly depends on how much they are being fed and naturally, how big were the parents.
Boa Constrictors have vestiges of a pelvis which protrudes at both flanks of the snake, near the Cloacae- these are believed to be remnants of limbs. These little spikes are called Spurs, and they are used by keepers to differentiate between males and females, males having bigger spurs. This is not a fool proof method, but keepers have been known to make use of it to great affect. The male Boa Constrictors use these spurs to scratch and entice the female during courtship.
It is believed that Boa Constrictors have some measure of color vision, including infra-red which is invisible to the human eye. For more details, consult this article:
:
http://www.eyedesignbook.com/ch3/eyech3-f.html
" The boa constrictor is nonvenomous and has color vision, some also have extended infra-red (IR) vision well beyond where humans can see. This enables it to sense temperature differences of less than 0.03 degrees centigrade at a significant distance, and thus find live targets in dense rain forests. Their IR vision system is being studied by the military to see how such a detector, useful for night vision, can function without being cooled to a very low temperature."
Selection and setup
Again, I can't stress enough the meaning of acquiring a Boa Constrictor, both to it's size and strength, and it's longevity. Please explain that I don't repeat this to dissuade people from getting one, but rather, try and explain the full meaning behind owning such an animal. Every year, more and more BCI are being bought by unaware buyers, who later become frustrated and undue stress is being put on both snake and keeper.
The husbandry is not complicated but it does require a mature presence of mind when choosing to bring such a snake into one's home.
After getting that point across, please allow me to be the first to congratulate you on what I consider a very worthy choice. Boa Constrictor Imperators are charming, impressive snake that usually has a very tolerant and docile disposition. I may gain a few eyebrow raises by saying so, but I certainly compare it to the acquiring of a new friend, for a relatively long term.
Whilst I came across the very common approach that generally states that a buyer should acquire all the things needed to keep the snake all the way to adulthood before getting it, I have to say that I am not like-minded. I believe that some items are essential while other requirements can be filled with the use of mundane, cheap, available materials/options.
I believe that one of the pros of keeping a snake is the fact that the general maintenance is cheap, and as I value a (pick a coin of choice), I will try to advise to the best of my ability how to arrange a decent setup, without spending too much money, and without compromising the snake's quality of life or safety, nor the breeder's:
*Vivarium: There are many choices for vivariums out there. I personally prefer plastic cages because they are light-weight, attractive and safe. However, they are not cheap- they are also not readily available to everyone.
A replacement which I feel does just as good a job is a plastic tub or shoebox- they are relatively cheap, hardy, and easy to clean. Glass and wooden vivariums are also an option.
Be your choice as it may, I usually advise to house your newly arrived BCI in a plastic box. For a baby BCI, a box measuring roughly 15X15 inches should be fine for the first couple of months. Be aware though that the BCI will grow rapidly, and by the end of the first year you may need to house him/her in a 30X20 enclosure.
Due to their rapid growth, I believe that immediately acquiring a vivarium that will last for the rest of his/her days is not essential- also, their size slightly varies and buying a vivarium you may end up not using is a shameful waste of money.
Regardless of your choice you should make sure that the enclosure is ventilated and that the lid can be closed and secured- snakes spend a whole lot of time in their enclosures, if there is a way to escape it, they will find it.
If you chose an adult BCI- you should pick a vivarium suited for her needs. I prefer not to give definite figures since it really does vary from one Boa to the other, depending on their size. You can expect a fully grown female to require a 4-6 foot viv, males usually needing a 3-4 feet- These are very rough estimations, very depending on the snake's size, and locality- some Boas are significantly smaller than others- such as the Corn Isle Boas.
* Thermometer- Essential, period. You don't have to buy the most expensive thermometer, but having one is essential to the proper husbandry of reptiles.
* Heating- There are quite a few methods for heating an enclosure nowdays. I personally am a big fan of heating sources that can be placed outside of the viv, thus minimizing the chance for heat-burns. I discourage people to use heating bricks/rocks, their small size forces the snake to be coiled all around it, and they have a tendency to malfunction. I imagine some people encourage the use of these, but I am not one of them- especially for a snake as large as a Boa.
I prefer using a UTH(Under Tank Heater)- be it a cable or a heating mat of the right watt.
* Bedding: Here too, there are many options. Personally, I found Aspen shavings to be an excellent option for juvenile BCI and adults. My favorite is, you may be surprised to learn, is plain ol' newspaper. Since Boa Constrictors do not defecate frequently, this is an excellent, cheap choice. Putting personal preferences aside, initially I advise using a newpaper or paper towels as bedding, enabling you to easily monitor your BCI's urine and stools- seeing that there are no traces of worms, blood, or anything out of the ordinary.
Additional accessories:
Water-dish: essential, naturally. But rather than going for expensive stylized water dishes, you can easily use any sturdy bowl that comes to mind. A few things should be taken into consideration prior to picking a water-dish: It should be easy to clean it, it shouldn't be painted with toxic materials, it is stable enough and will not be easily turned upside down when moved and lastly- has enough space for the snake to be able to get into it fully.
Hide: Many keepers insist that hides are essential… personally, all the Boas I've seen were much more keen on laying on top of the hide than they were in it. I have yet to keep or see a baby Boa that preferred to hide but… snakes, and especially Boas, are not all the same and they have their own personality. My take on this is to provide a hide, but I discourage from buying expansive ones as from experience, they are more likely to use it as a branch or lay beside it than actually be in it.
Branches and rocks: I encourage keepers to put branches and rocks in the vivarium. Of course, one has to make sure that the stones and branches were thoroughly cleaned, preferably soaked in water with iodine/bit of bleach and then thoroughly rinsed. You may be surprised to learn this but Boa Constrictor Imperators are very arboreal and they love to climb and lay on "higher ground watching over their realm". Make sure to change the rocks and branches every now and then, switching places or items to keep the snake stimulated. I believe this contributes to a higher quality of life.
Pincers/hemostats: Some tool for handing f/t rodents is a must. These snakes usually "shed away" their docile disposition when confronted with the smell of food, reminding us of their predatory nature. As such, it is very discouraged not to feed a BCI with an appropriately sized tool- failing to do so may lead to a serious injury of either the snake, keeper, or both.
Selecting a snake
A very wrongfully underestimated part of getting a snake, is choosing the source(breeder).
Though I do not like speak against anyone, I'm afraid that just like in any community, in the herping community there are people who should be trusted that play on new keeper's ignorance by selling BCI that are possibly unhealthy, or with a label that does not reflect the truth about the snake- be it supposedly "pure locality" or one morph or another when in fact, it's neither.
There is a very real risk to buying from a third person, be it from a store or a middle-man. First, you run the risk of the snake being kept in sub-optimal conditions because you don't know how well versed the store/person is in snake husbandry, and second, you can't examine the facility yourself, nor can you usually see the parents of the snake you consider- or, to be short, you put your trust in a person whom you hardly know, and whose understanding and care for the snake you are buying is usually minimal.
Personally, I always recommend that a reputable breeder is chosen, for a multitude of reasons. Most breeders will allow a certain level of clarity, possibly allowing you to visit the facilities, seeing the parents or simply meeting up- do bear in mind though that a breeder too is entitled to some measure of privacy.
By buying from a breeder, you can also forge an ongoing relationship that will allow you to consult him with your new snake- for new keepers, the worth of such an opportunity is invaluable.
Most breeders will also take some measure of responsibility, and guarantee the arrival of the snake and it's well-being(this is usually true when it comes to inter-continental shipments). This responsibility however is limited in nature because once the snake leaves his establishment and is at the hands of new keeper, the new snake's condition is entirely dependent on his husbandry skills- the condition of a snake can deteriorate quickly if he is not kept properly- breeders simply cannot take responsibility for things that are not in their hands.
Now that we have chosen our source, let us go over a few things that we should check and examine when choosing our new BCI:
1- the eyes are alert, bright, not bulging and emitting no discharge(in the case of shedding, the eyes should appear cloudy and slightly blue).
2- The snake responds and is alert to his surroundings, flicking his tongue with interest. Aggression at this stage is sometimes a blessed thing, as it usually signifies that the snake is in a good condition.
3- The snake, even if he is a neonate, should have quite a bit of muscle tone, which should be obviously noted when handled.
4- The body is muscular and free of scars or lesions. The scales should be smooth and have a glimmering quality to them.
5- Under good lightening, examine the snake and see if it has mites(visible to the naked eye as miniature black dots, either moving about or lodged in sensitive areas such as the sides of the mouth, eyes, cloaca and so on). Mites are blood sucking parasites and though they cannot harm human beings, they are the potential carriers of disease. It is best to avoid bring a snake that has mites into one's home.
6- If at all possible, try and get the snake to open it's mouth, seeing that is
no sign of mouth-rot(cheese-like texture within the oral cavity, in
severe cases even black/green with discharge),
Another thing to consider is WC versus CB- unless you are very set on getting a certain locality from which only wildcaught animals are aware, I highly recommend not getting wildcaught animals.
Putting the moral issue aside that most of these animals are smuggled and that it promotes the removal of wild animals from their habitats, usually WC animals will be very aggressive, under severe stress, have internal parasites and quite possibly suffer from other problems such as kidney damage because the conditions in which they were shipped were far from optimal.
Personally, I have never taken in a WC animal, and I don't see myself doing so anytime soon.
Captive Born animals will usually be a deal more docile, healthy, and far more suitable as a pet.
The importance of Quarantine!- Inculsion Body Disorder
It is very recommended to quarantine your new snake, if you already have an established collection for a multitude of reasons, one of them being IBD.
Inclusion Body Disorder, Also known as IBD, is the equivalent of HIV, only in reptiles. Boa Constrictors are natural potential carriers of what is today considered to be a retro-virus(much like HIV).
This disease is fatal, and has no cure. It is very complicated and difficult to diagnose a living animal, often requiring a series of rather invasive biopsy tests to yield close to accurate results.
The virus attacks only Boids- Boas and Pythons. Pythons are not natural carriers, once exposed to the virus, it is a matter of few weeks before they show the symptoms and perish.
With Boas, it is a bit more complicated- as natural carriers, Boa Constrictors can carry the disease without ever showing symptoms, all the while infecting other snakes in their surroundings until it erupts. Once the snake shows symptoms however, it's a matter of time before they die.
The virus works as Aides does, disabling the snake's immune system, thus making it susceptible to mouth rot, respiratory infection and so on. The symptoms therefore include mouth rot and/or respiratory infection(wheezing, discharge from the mouth, reluctance to eat, lethargy). These however return even if treated, or remain even when treated. IBD in addition seems to be related to the nerves and spines- snakes suffering from IBD mostly exhibiting behavior associated with stargazers, their body become disoriented and incapable of normal movement, the head lolling in a corkscrew motion.
Once the BCI begins to show these symptoms, it is sadly a matter of time…
It is yet unclear whether or not Colubrids can carry the disease, but it is certain that they are immune to it's effects.
Infection occurs when a snake is exposed to infected body fluids- when breeding, exposure to infected feces and infected blood- the latter occurring due to the presence of mites- which are considered the main reason for the spreading of the disease.
I did not write about IBD to scare anyone, but rather, to encourage awareness to a very real threat, and the importance of acquiring snakes from a reputable source.
By quarantining the snake for a period of 3-6 months(the more, the better), you can monitor your new snake's behavior and health without running the risk of infecting your whole collection. Quarantine should be held in a separate room from your main reptile room, and if at all possible, a different facility altogether.
It is recommended to first handle and care for your established collection and only then move to the new animal, that way you are eliminating the risk of transferring bacteria/parasites to your healthy animals.
Make sure you do not switch water bowls, vivarium or decorations between the new snake's viv and your established collection- again, for the same reason.
Hygiene is of course essential- make sure to wash your hands with anti bacterial soap after handling your snakes.
Though this period of time may not ensure beyond a doubt that your snake has IBD, it is still better than nothing. Also, the main benefit is the ability to completely eradicate any presence of mites on the animal during this time- this way, even if the snake is infected, the disease will at least be contained.
General Maintenance
In the "Selection and setup" section I already described the necessities one would need when bringing a new BCI, in this section I will be describing the general husbandry that is recommended for these animals.
I generally support providing a thermal gradient within the tank, in the warmer spot providing 29-32 C (84-88 F) and on the cooler ends around 26-28 C(79-82 F). Each breeder may give different numerals but eventually they all tend to revolve around the same spectrum.
Boa Constrictors generally do not have special humidity requirements, and would be content with a water bowl big enough to fit into if the need arises. However, if you live in a particularly dry area, spraying the BCI with a bit of clean water on a weekly basis can certainly do no harm- just make sure that the viv is well ventilated.
Water:
I recommend changing the water at least one a week, though twice a week would be preferable.
Every week or two, take out the water dish and clean it with anti-bacterial soap. Personally, I use iodine solution diluted with water to soak and scrub the dishes with.
Some keepers recommend using the water dish as a method to increase the humidity within the vivarium by setting it at the warm side. Personally I am not a fan of this method since higher temperature accelerates the growth of bacteria within the water, thus quickly making it unworthy to drink and I also don't think that the snake appreciates the taste of warm water.
Feeding:
BCI's are usually –very- eager and enthusiastic feeders, generally making feeding a very rewarding experience.
When feeding, make sure you use a hemostat or another tool to handle the mouse, for BCI's react with ferociousness mostly and you may end up being bitten- Boa Constrictors are powerful, and they get quite big, bites therefore it is best to avoid being bitten.
BCI feed on rodents, quails, guinea pigs and rabbits- people who have a problem with feeding, should not bring in a BCI. There is a limited number of species who thrive on fish and insects, like garter snakes, but there are not vegetarian snakes- failing to provide them with the appropriate sustenance will result in serious harm to the snake.
Another dilemma that frequently raises it's head is the matter of feeding live versus frozen/thawed prey(also known as f/t).
Personally, I encourage people to feed on solely f/t for several reasons:
1- Minimizing the risk of injury on the snake's part
2- It is easier to store large quantities of rodents when frozen
3- I personally believe it is more humane
4- By eliminating the snake's need to struggle for it's food, the predatory instincts slowly become more and more dormant, thus making the snake generally more docile and less agitated. This is not a fact, but an opinion based on personal observation of mine.
I generally encourage keepers to feed their BCI outside of their vivs. That way, they know that when your hand comes into the viv, it's not food, thus minimizing the risk for being mistakenly identified as food.
Also, if you keep your snake on bedding such as aspen, you avoid harmful ingestion of the substrate by feeding outside of the tank.
Though not being the common case, reluctant eaters aren't unheard of. If you happen to have a picky BCI, there are several things to consider- first and foremost, check the thermal gradient to make sure that this is not due to husbandry related errors.
If that's not the case, try and see if feeding the snake within the viv changes things- Some BCI become too agitated when moved, making them too concerned with what they perceive as a threat to be interested in food.
Other BCI prefer to eat undisturbed, try leaving an f/t rodent with the snake in a small box for around an hour or so- you can also try leaving it in the snake's viv, making sure that the snake is not on aspen bedding or any other chipped bedding- ingestion can result in bowel impaction and may prove fatal.
The last resort would be feeding live- personally, I have yet to encounter a snake that can't be "converted". However, such cases do exist, but they are not common enough that you should be too concerned.
At the first 4 months of their lives, feeding should take place roughly once a week. Depending on the size of the BCI, they will usually take 2 weaned mice, or a single small adult every meal at the beginning.
A good way to assess the size of the meal is to feed a prey whose size does not exceed the snake's girth by more than 150%. If the "feeding bulge" vanishes within two days as though the snake hadn't eaten, it is time to move to slightly bigger meals.
At 4-5 months of age, I recommend changing the feeding schedule to once every 10 days, and at around 8-9 months, once every two weeks.
Female BCI should be fed every two weeks from here on out. Male BCI, as they get older, beginning at 12-18 months of age, should be fed once every 2 and a half to three weeks.
Adult females will feed on a good quantity of rats, 2-4 big adults, or another rodent of total equivalent size.
Males, being usually a deal smaller, will feed on 1-3 adult rats.
This is a very rough estimation and it is very dependent on the snake's size.
I highly recommend documenting feedings in a feeding log, this allows you to monitor the snake's meals more efficiently, in case of regurgitations, shedding an so on, recording it to keep track of things.
Regurgitation as a whole in BCI is worse than colubrids- BCI need more time to recover and are more affected by it.
In case of regurgitation, make sure to not feed the snake for at least 2 weeks, after which, a small meal, around 50% of the norm, should be given.
If the snake does not regurgitate, another similar meal should be offered- if both meals are not regurgitated, you can return to the normal feeding regime, making sure you pay close attention to the size of the meal that you give.
Shedding:
Boa Constrictors, like all snakes, shed. The shedding occurs when a new layer of keratin is created due to wear and tear and the snake's growth. For young boas, this can occur every month or so, and as they mature, it becomes less and less frequent.
When a BCI goes into shed, they usually darken and become slightly washed- this being very visible if the saddles on the tail are examined. The eyes later become cloudy, sometimes even solid blue. Some BCI also gain a slightly "saggy" look, their skin looking as though it is slightly too big for them.
During this period the snake is partially blind and many of them would be guarded. At this point it is best to just leave them be- food is better avoided at this time since in many cases, it will simply be refused altogether.
After several days, around 4 or so, the snake's eyes will clear and he will lighten a bit- and an actual shed should quickly follow, a matter of few days.
From personal experience, BCI tend to look their best around 24-48 hours after the actual shed- so do not be alarmed or concerned if your BCI seems to have a lot of grey areas, these usually clear up and leave a wonderful sight in their wake.
Handling your BCI
It remains unclear if snakes truly enjoy interaction or not. It is impossible to argue the fact that snakes in the wild are solitary by choice and preference, this being due the competition over resources in the wild and their own instincts.
In captivity the rules are slightly changed, and like it or not, more and more reports from hobbyists are made here and there claiming that one of their snakes seems to be extra tolerant and even likes to crawl over to the keeper when his cage is open.
One can justifiably argue the point and say that the snake makes haste to see if there's food involved- and it is quite possible.
However, we cannot know for a certainty, and this is not a discussion I can form a conclusion to.
However, I do believe that the equivalent of trust can be made between snake and owner- the snake "understanding" and not registering the keeper as a threat. To do so, interaction must be made.
Personally, I enjoy handling my Boas, unlike Colubrids, their self confidence allows them to slither about deliberately and without suddenly darting off anywhere, thus making the experience quite enjoyable.
When reaching out to take hold of the snake, make sure you lift them gently from roughly one third down his length, grabbing him from the head or neck can easily be interpreted as a threat and it will react as much. Also, try not to catch the snake unaware, if you wish to handle your snake, make sure the snake notices your presence first- usually will be greeted with some manner of movement and tongue flicking.
When handling your snake, try not to make alarming, quick movements, as time progresses, you should be comfortable with handling your snake and the snake will act more casually when you handle it.
Another very highly debated topic is their intelligence- I for one believe that snakes, like the majority of animals, is capable of associating action with consequence. As such, if every time he hisses, the keeper backs away- the snake simply registers that when he hisses, he is left alone, thus basically being rewarded. Same goes for biting attempts.
Personally, I feel that if the snake hisses or try to bite, we should deliberately try and handle them- all the while making sure that the handling is brief and that we do not stress out the snake too much. The goal being that the snake will see that his efforts are "futile" and eventually will relent and tolerate being handled.
I imagine many keepers would argue this point, it is an opinion based on personal experience, which may be true and may be false.
I know that it had worked wonders for me, allowing me to turn an aggressive Texas Ratsnake into a very docile animal, same goes for aggressive baby BCI's and even calming down a Biak Green Tree Python to a degree.
This however is no "miracle cure". Some snakes will remain aggressive because their instincts are very dominant- especially in wild caught animals.
All in all, handling your snake allows you to enjoy your snake, and the snake gains an opportunity to work his muscles and be stimulated- thus breaking the routine of being confined to the same space for long periods of time.
Another way to add stimulus to the snake's life is to shift objects inside his viv, adding branches, changing their location and so on. These changes can be minor and need not be too frequent- I feel that they add a lot to the snake's quality of life.
Have fun with your Boa Constrictor Imperator!
Any feedback would be appreciated if you feel like it.
Oren.
