House Training Adult Dog

[airenlow]

I think my question requires a little back-story. Please bear with me for a second...

I have a 5 year old Pointer/Beagle mix that has been an outside dog since birth. He is currently living with my parents while I am away for college. My family is planning on moving and they don't think they are going to be able to take the dogs with them. They are probably going to rent for a while and don't want to limit their options. So, yesterday they gave me an ultimatum...either they drop the dog off with me on their way through town or they get rid of him, along with the other dogs. I think pets of that nature are a forever responsibility, so I said I would take him (and I wish I could take the others). Now my problem is, I live in an apartment. My only other option is for him to stay at my girlfriend's house, but he would still be an inside dog.

So, how hard is it to house train a dog that has lived outside it's whole life? My little brothers (17 and 14) will be working with him until May when my family makes the big move, but they are busy high school kids and won't have much time to spend with him during the week. What can they do now and what will I need to do when he gets here? Any tips, links and stories are welcome!

 

[RosieReal]

Well...when we had to train the puppy, we were told to take it out every two hours, and keep it in a kennel otherwise. Perhaps a similar method could be used? As long as you walk the dog regularly...really really regularly...and praise heavily when the dog uses the bathroom where you want him too, i think he will get the message. Try to always take the dog to the same spot, and dont go inside -right- after, but give a treat and then play with him for a while...that way, he wont delay going to the bathroom to stay outside longer.
Old dogs CAN be taught new tricks, but you will have to be VERY persistant. and HYPER attentive. If the dog even makes a motion like he kind of has to go, take him straight to the pee spot, and if you catch him in the middle of doing the busniess, take him straight to the pee spot. dont rub his nose in anything, that just frightens him.
Hope some of this helps.

 

[Emily1188]

The dog will need a crate or pen that is confining enough that he is inclined to refrain from soiling where he has to lay. Take him out often, paying special attention to after meals of course. When he is not crated, he should be tethered to someone by a leash. Basically, he will need constant supervision. When he does his thing outside, reward him heavily with treats or a toy -don't expect praise alone to do it. Start keeping a dish of treats by the door, or something. Reward IMMEDIATELY after he goes, not when he gets back in the house.

Generally speaking, do not punish or scold accidents, and never, ever "rub his face in it".

With consistency and dedication, you should be able to housebreak him. I have a friend who housebroke a 10 year old Dachshund.

 

[Emily1188]

Also, forgot to add, if you take him out, knowing it's been a few hours, and he screws around and doesn't go, put him straight back into the crate.

 

[vetusvates]

Josh, over the years, I have house-trained many. From Labs to Pitbulls to Italian Greyhounds to Spaniels.
It has been my observation that an adult that has primarily stayed (matured) outside, is one of the easiest.
IMHO and experience, they have learned the difference between "outside" and "inside". "Inside" is just 'special'. I had a beautiful pitbull back in the 1970's, that grew up in the back yard, and just came in the house (at 1-2 years old) and "just knew". And God love him, he was no rocket scientist.
But he did not tell me. I had to remember to be conscious of when he might need to go out. I think he would have held it forever.
I have followed no "plan", but do feel, and have been told, that I am good with animals.
Maybe some of the hunting guys will post. I know they have posted before, have tons of experience, and no doubt have experience with letting a hunting dog inside (for a while, at least).
Nanci, too.

 

[airenlow]

Thanks guys! The sites I came up with today were less than helpful...

So, should they even bother doing anything right now? I doubt it will be anywhere close to consistent.

 

[vetusvates]

I am not hypervigilant or fussy in the training area. (Don't want any 'freudism's' to slip into the equation.)
But being consistent IS vital.

Ask Brent (Drizzt80) or Mike17l.

 

[desertanimal]

Personally, I'd keep him on a lead on my waist for a while when inside (when not in a crate, obviously), but I bet vetusvates is right and it will be less of a problem than you suspect.

 

[Michael823]

I think everyone else summed it up quite well. Just be patient, PRAISE the dog up and down when he goes to the bathroom outside, and be very consistent. Does the dog have an issue with going to the bathroom in the house already? Or are you just wanting to be prepared in case the dog ends up going in the house? I also don't think that the responsibility of house training an older dog should be too much work for high school kids, so I would let them know how important it is to help this dog out.

I must say that it's really too bad that other dogs will be left behind because of the move (if I read that correctly?), but that's life I suppose.

 

[MalinoisK9]

Most important question missed here is he intact or neutered? If neutered... how does he behave? Is he dominant or submissive, or where abouts in between? When outside how is he about the boundaries of his "territory"?

For crating... crating a dog in a crate that doesn't give the dog enough room to get away from their waste will help teach them to hold and control their bladder/bowel movements better, BUT for urinating make sure you wrap cardboard around all 4 sides so he can't just pee out side of the cage.

When you catch the dog fowling indoors scold accordingly to the dog.. some require a raised voice others require a heavy hand. NEVER EVER EVER scold a dog unless you catch them in the act. It doesn't matter if a dog "acts" like he did something wrong before you found the waste. This is counter productive and will get you nowhere but having a dog that is in fear of you. This goes for rubbing a dogs nose in it. Stupid.

When the dog "ask" to go outside praise him for it. Then once he empties himself out side praise again. Act like you are praising a toddler... go over the top. The more into it the dog gets the better. Once he gets this then stop the praising for asking to go out...to much and this will start bad habits of just wanting to go out because it will make you happy even if they don't need to pee/poop.

Don't humanize a dog, they are not human and do not think like humans.

 

[airenlow]

Does the dog have an issue with going to the bathroom in the house already? Or are you just wanting to be prepared in case the dog ends up going in the house?

He hasn't been indoors since he was a few weeks old, so I don't know if there will be any issues. I'm preparing for the worst...

I also don't think that the responsibility of house training an older dog should be too much work for high school kids, so I would let them know how important it is to help this dog out.

I offered them $100 each...that would have been enough incentive for me at that age!

I must say that it's really too bad that other dogs will be left behind because of the move (if I read that correctly?), but that's life I suppose.

I agree! We have a male Beagle (16ish years old) and female GSP (9ish), both former breeders. The other 3 are "accidents" from when these adults hooked up through the fence. Mine is one of the mutts...

 

[Michael823]

He hasn't been indoors since he was a few weeks old, so I don't know if there will be any issues. I'm preparing for the worst...

Oh, gotcha'! I didn't realize that the dog had literally been an outdoor dog all it's life. Perhaps the dog will surprise you, and treat going outside to be the norm already.

I offered them $100 each...that would have been enough incentive for me at that age!

Geez! $100 in high school would've been incentive to follow the dog with a doo doo bag, and bathe it weekly. You are the older brother though, so if paying them off won't work it's you're right... no it's your god given duty to make them !

I agree! We have a male Beagle (16ish years old) and female GSP (9ish), both former breeders. The other 3 are "accidents" from when these adults hooked up through the fence. Mine is one of the mutts...

That's too bad! Not to sound judgmental of the situation, but older dogs have a much more difficult time finding homes. Perhaps there's a person you already have in mind, but if not then I wish you the best of luck in finding homes for the others.

 

[airenlow]

Most important question missed here is he intact or neutered? If neutered... how does he behave? Is he dominant or submissive, or where abouts in between? When outside how is he about the boundaries of his "territory"?

He is neutered. On his own, he is pretty much right in the middle between dominant and submissive. No real highs or lows. With the other dogs, he is 3rd in the hierarchy...behind the Beagle and oldest male pup. He is territorial of strange dogs, but not with my family or our dogs.

For crating... crating a dog in a crate that doesn't give the dog enough room to get away from their waste will help teach them to hold and control their bladder/bowel movements better, BUT for urinating make sure you wrap cardboard around all 4 sides so he can't just pee out side of the cage.

Hey...there was something useful on those websites! This will be a must...

Thanks for the info everybody! I'm taking notes and will put all this to good use.

 

[airenlow]

That's too bad! Not to sound judgmental of the situation, but older dogs have a much more difficult time finding homes. Perhaps there's a person you already have in mind, but if not then I wish you the best of luck in finding homes for the others.

I honestly don't know how they can just get rid of them like this. We have had dogs all my life. They did the same thing with our horses when I was in high school. I hope it works out for everybody. :shrugs:

 

[desertanimal]

I gave my cats to my mom thinking it would be a forever home when I got together with a woman who was deathly allergic to cats. The relationship lasted 6 years. My mom took the cats to the pound in less than 1. Lesson learned there . . . Not about re-homing pets, but about re-homing them with mom. :nope:

 

[carol]

A lot of good advice in here and I know I'm repeating a lot of stuff but here goes..

1) The dog has to be by your side leashed or in a small crate like suggested above at all times. I like Steph's idea of a leash around the waist.

2) It's vital to catch the dog in the act and punish accordingly like Malinois said, and ONLY while in the middle of the act not even 3 seconds later.

3) It's just as vital to catch the dog in the act of doing it in the proper place and praise accordingly. I'd advise you to train him to go on commmand, which is really easy. Just say the word you want to use when he's doing it and praise.

4) Controlling times water is available will also help. I'm sure I'll get heat for this and people will say your dog will self implode if it doesn't have fresh water available 24/7. However, if you offer water on a schedule it will help you know when he has to go. Then once you are sure he has the hang of it, you can leave it out all the time.

One other trick I learned was to also have a few shaker cans around. (Soda cans with pennies inside and the mouth taped). If you do happen to catch your dog in the act. try to throw it at him with out him seeing you do it. (No it will not hurt him, and yes I have been hit with a shaker can many times myself... although never for peeing on the floor) Hopefully it will startle him and you can just look at him like you don't know what happened and run him out. The theory is that if you do the punishing all the time, he could learn to just not pee in the house when you are around. However, if crazy soda cans come flying out of no where when he pees in the house, he won't associate you to it. However, that's a trick mainly for pups when you have a LOT of opportunity to correct the behavior. Like Eric said, you should have a lot less trouble with an adult.

 

[ForkedTung]

I just happened to come across this quote, while looking at some info. for my puppy and remembered seeing this thread. Sounds like this is a great book and may help you, looks like they have a used one for under $5

The book takes dog training from a dog's point of view - and that is the best way to get results. The empathy for the dog's position that the author encourages was a completely new experience for me. I adopted an adult dog from a shelter four months ago who had never been indoors before. She had been abused and you could hardly say "no" to her without her cringing and running away. I needed a training method that was completely positive and non-abusive in every sense of the word. More importantly, I needed a training method that worked.

My dog can sit, down, stay, come, wait, drop, and fetch; she doesn't jump up, she doesn't chase the cats, and she's housebroken - all thanks to this book.

http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1888047054/woodhavenlabr-20/

 

[desertanimal]

. . . and yes I have been hit with a shaker can many times myself... although never for peeing on the floor. . .

:roflmao::roflmao::roflmao:

 

[vetusvates]

I just wanted to say I liked Stephanie's idea of tethering the dog to you. I had never thought of that in words, but the first year after I adopted Brutus at 10 months (already pretty much house trained) he was never off the leash--walking, or going to and from my car, to and from the car to my office, etc. He learned that his place was by my side. Even in the hubbub of a Halfway House with 60 guys milling around making whistles and kissing noises....it is funny watching him walk through the mob two to three feet behind me. (I can't whistle, so he never learned to react to whistling.) I really did not go into the minutia of detail in my post, but the dog at your side at all times facilitates a number of things. Him/her learning what is and is not acceptable....all the way to your dog learning to want to be by your side, or within a reasonable perimeter, most of the time.

Carol's post was great. Cue's have to be instantaneous. Other things (like the non-whistling so non-reaction are effortless)....and really this is more important than one might think. Confusing your dog with signals all day long every time he sneezes...is just confusing.
Note: Brutus goes tea-tea and du-du (don't want to get banned) on command, like Carol described. I don't like standing around out in the heat, the rain, or the cold. Having learned just like Carol described to accomplish this.
Also Note : words with distinct vowel-consonant combinations are easier for them to understand. Brutus knows what tea-tea, du-du, Brutus, No, stop, outSIDE, kommen Sie, and schneller, mean. I don't require tricks, but I think it's pretty cool that he's bi-lingual. LOL.
He gets plenty off odd-sounding commands from my clients/residents. To which he simply stands there looking at them like their crazy. Ahem,...I did NOT deliberately train him to look at anyone like they are crazy.

And,...I recommend Kyle's book. Nanci has a book she likes, and I know Brent and Mike17l, and Michael and Ricky are very well-read and knowledgeable, too

 

[cornspot]

You may not have much trouble potty training since he is already used to "going" outside, but you may have trouble getting the dog to be used to staying indoors.

I know a breeder who raises spring puppies outside & winter puppies in a basement. The new owners of the spring puppies always rave about easy to house train they were. The mama dog lives in a kennel outside but is often invited into the house; she is good for about 20-30 minutes then asks to go back out. Another of her dogs that was raised outside has been spayed & turned into a house dog; that one took to the spoiling immediately.

For my latest dog (4 months old at the time), I had trouble getting her to learn to poop outside. I tried praising at different points in her squatting & tried offering treats at different points, but she didn't associate the pooping with the treat or she'd stop in the mid squat to come get a treat. After a couple weeks of "accidents" I taught her that a clicker means treats are coming. It took only two outside BMs to train her to poop outside using the clicker as soon as the first turd started to come out. Then the treat came after she was all done.