Western Hogs are great pets but they are a lot different in several aspects than keeping a corn snake per se. My observations with my first pair of western hogs that I've had for 6 months has been (keep in mind these are observations based on my hogs, I'm sure everybodies individual experiences will differ greatly):
1) Male is calm and easy to handle; Female is a lot more skittish and prone to being fleety.
2) Female is a great eater and never refuses a meal; Male will periodically go off food for 2-4 weeks before eating again for 6-8 weeks before fasting again.
3) While there has been significant growth in both of them (and these are late 06's), the female has only shed once and is now in blue again; the male has not shed yet and has now only gone in blue.
From talking to several breeders about male eating behavior and fasting, this seems to be a fairly normal thing even outside of the breeding cycle. It's just something that males do.
In regards to shedding, again having spoken with breeders, western hogs do not shed with much frequency after the first year.
While Westerns are usually adapted to eating rodents, some can be picky and need the occasional toad to scent with. You can't scent with just any toad either, some toads like your common store bought fire bellied's can possibly make them ill. Bufo toads and a few other common american species should do the trick. One thing though, always ask the seller what they are eating. If they are not steady on a rodent diet, you might have more work trying to get them to eat than you want to deal with.
With substrate, I keep mine (and all my other snakes) on rabbit pellets. These are easy to burrow in, they can be accidently ingested (although not preferred), they act like cat litter and clump upon defecation and depending on what (feed) stores you have around, are easy to get and fairly cheap. I did a thread on the advantages and disadvantages of rabbit pellets if you use the search engine. As hogs are a species that likes to digs and is physically evolved for this, I don't think having a sand substrate would be a problem at all, especially if you choose to feed inside separate containers. Phillippe de Vosjoli, in his book The Art Of Keeping Snakes, recommends using a sandy substrate for this digging species and even says this about concerns over impaction (page 187-188): "Risks of intestinal impaction are often raised when considering sand substrates for a variety of herps, including hognose snakes. This is the kind of generalization that is becoming common with the armies of self-made experts on the Internet. In the wild, snakes that live on sandy substrates don't usually die of impaction." Amen to that
As far as feeding a prey item one and a half times the size of the body as is usually the preferred method for corns, it doesn't necessarily seem to be as easy for hogs to eat larger items possibly due to the design of their jaw structure. This doesn't mean they aren't capable, but mine have seemed to struggle with anything that has been larger than their head. Considering that mine are a year or a little older, they are still working on large pinkies and fuzzies. The female is large enough and wolfs down the fuzzies and sometimes my male will eat one, but the male seems to prefer the large pinkies over fuzzies :shrugs:
And always remember, hognose snakes are a rear-fanged and mildly venomous animal. While they are more prone to closed-mouth striking, hissing and playing dead when threatened, there are several instances where people have become bitten possibly from feeding responses and do have the typical excessive bleeding/swelling reactions. I do not say this to ward you off of wanting to keep a hognose, but to keep you informed
I now have 6 Westerns and just aquired a pair of bicolors today. They are awesome and very personable snakes and the differences between them and the more commonly kept colubrid species makes them totally interesting and unique. Good luck should you choose to get one
